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There are only two truly unique Chicago signatures.
One is the most wonderfully variegated skyline in the world and
other is the Chicago hot dog, specifically the PolishWith-Everything,
robust, challenging, and possibly a balanced meal .
A Chicago POLISH-WITH-EVERYTHING is grilled, not
boiled. It is eaten with relish; and mustard and onions and kosher
dill pickles and Jalapeno peppers and tomatoes; and, sometimes,
ketchup and celery salt.
POLISH-WITH-EVERYTHING is not just a summer dish.
It is eaten year-round, even in Chicagoís bitter winter. With the
eater's feet in the snow, it quickly warms the upper body, and,
with additional Jalapenos it will also do the feet.
A perfect POLISH-WITH-EVERYTHING in a large bun
held with the crack open to the sky must almost, but not quite,
hold everything.
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For the first bite Chicagoans with a normal sized
mouths keep the bun upright while turning their heads sideways to
get the bite in their mouths without everything falling on the sidewalk.
This ungraceful, sideways maneuver may put a little mustard and
relish on the face, and maybe the shirt, but prevents a greater
amount from being lost on the sidewalk.
Wrapping a paper napkin around a Polish before
the initial bite can help hold it all together but is visuallly
detrimental. A perfect POLISH-WITH-EVERYTHING is not only a beautiful
thing to eat it is also a beautiful thing to see. The experience
is similar to that of first setting your eyes on a great banquet.
Before the first bite there are golden visual moments of heightened
anticipation and unspoiled salivation These are lost if the feast
is hidden by paper napkin. (Also, pieces of the napkin could, later,
wind up in your mouth ) No, the better way, the recommended way,
is naked, sideways, and head on.
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At the moment when your top row of teeth come down
and split that first little Mexican pepper an excitement starts
in your gums and the Jalapena heat tingles downward to your epiglottisand
then up your nose like lightning.

Almost simultaneously the sensation is framed in the mouth by slices
of summer tomato and the toothís quick cleaving of the crisp cool
sour of the pickle ( as in piccolo) to create a lovely counterpoint
relief to the heat of the Jalapenos.
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The sweet acedic fumes of the kosher dill will have,
by now, followed the Jalapenos up the nose and layed their cool
hands on your Jalapeno fevered nasal membranes.
A slight Jalapeno buzz is causing some areas of
your skin to flush and a light perspiration to trickle across your
scalp and armpits.
Seconds later the bases thunder in as your molars
cleave and squash into the juicy garlicky sausage. The Polishís
sausageís flavor quickly dominates and spreads but it does not obscure
the rest of the orchestra Its flavor, centered on the sides of your
tongue, start to form, coupled with the tiny shards of onion, a
magnificent chord.
Meanwhile fragments of Rosen bun, more or less in
each cheek are providing a gentle background melody. On the underside
of your tongue quiet strains of Guldens yellow mustard are weaving
a tart counterpoint.
By now the tomato has played its fleeting but special role and has
become only a persistant memory.
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Fragmentary strains of peppers and pickles resurface
sharply then become a refrain on your taste buds even as the main
mouthful of the full POLISH-WITH-EVERYTHING orchestra starts to
come together, building steadily towards a great POLISH-WITH-EVERYTHING
crescendo.
Then, as though in the hands of a crazed conductor
or a mad painter throwing everything onto his canvas, it is all
mashed and mauled to that grand finale, a great variegated, universal,
mouthful of POLISH-WITH-EVERYTHING mish-mash. An orgiastic climax
that can cause goose flesh on the arms and perspiration anywhere
on the body.
. Finally, down the gullet goes the glorious mix.
At this point the stomach seems to have developed taste buds of
its own and sends warm messages of thanks, well being, and requests
for more, from the middle of the gut, tingling up the spinal column,
to the brain.
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Another bite and the whole theme,
with variations, is replayed- and over and over again until even
the tail end of the bun holding the last of the everything is gone.
A requiem of cold beer is then allowed to bubble
and sizzle slowly over the tongue; slide, almost painfully, down
the overheated throat, to find a contented warm home, mid-belly,
with the whole polish orchestra.
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All material copyright©Tony
Kelly
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| webwork by Max
Kelly/Ampersand Designsmelimax@acadia.net |
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